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When Chef Vineet Bhatia served a 15-course menu

Naturally, the way Chef Vineet Bhatia was cooking in 1993 was poles apart from the food he's presenting now. "London is the centre of the world in many ways, in food terms. So when you want to showcase an Indian menu with 15 courses, it takes a thought process. For two and a half hours, you have to remain seated and be entertained, plate after plate. And each time there has to be a wow factor." 

It isn't just about the food anymore; it is the restaurant; it's the staff, the service sequence, crockery, and every little detail matters. "For example, the crockery on which I serve my 15 courses costs me around 300 per person. We buy unique pieces. We have a new plate, which is a half plate; it's a broken plate. We serve a wild mushroom momo with a red pepper chutney, garlic raita, porcini powder and makhni ice cream." Why broken? "I just wanted to add something dramatic flair. Fifteen courses on the same plate is boring. Suddenly this comes in the seventh course, and piques your interest."